The first recorded attempt to ascend Kabru is believed to have been done by W. W. Graham, Emil Boss and Ulrich Kaufmann in 1883. They claimed to have come all the way to a point around 10-15 meters below the actual summit, their ascent making them the new holders of the high-altitude record of their time. After an anomymous correspondent expressed his doubts in an article in “The Pioneer Mail”, Graham’s claim was refuted by Sir Martin Conway and members of the Alpine Club, and the Indian Survey Department. As a consequence Graham’s achievement got ignored almost to a point where it was forgotten.

But regardless of whether Graham’s accounts were true, there is no doubt that the high-altitude record was set on the slopes of Kabru, as in October 1907, in a remarkable but a little known ascent, a Norwegian pair consisting of C. W. Rubenson and Monrad Aag made an ambitious attempt from the Rathong glacier. They were able to cross the Kabru icefall and reach the saddle between the two summits. However, just as they arrived about 50m below the North summit, their approach was halted by intense cold and high winds.

Almost thirty years passed after Rubenson and Aag nearly made it to the summit of Kabru, and it was in the year 1936 that british mountaineer C.R. Cooke worked his way up to the top of Kabru North. With his climb he not only made history as the first person to stand on the summit of Mount Kabru, he also held the record for the highest solo climb until 1953 (his companion Gustav Schobert had to turn around during the approach to the summit due to health issues and fear of frostbite, and they agreed that Cooke would continue alone).

The whole problem of climbing Kabru lies in the ascent of the ice-fall, and from the Base Camp it looks a monster. Its lower portion sweeps up into a labyrinth of hanging seracs and grey ice-walls. On its east side the 1,200-foot Kanzel rock stems the cataract of ice but is almost overwhelmed by it, while on its west side a mighty bastion of Kabru discharges ice avalanches down a mile of precipice every hour of the night.

C.R. Cooke on the challenges of climbing Kabru, Himalayan Journal 08, 1936

Cooke’s words demonstrate quite a bit of respect and give an explanation why for many years his ascent had not been repeated, and why Kabru South, as well as the somewhat mysterious Kabru III, still kept awaiting their first ascent. It took another 58 years before a big Indian Army expedition led by Major A. Abbey claimed the rest of Kabru’s summits. On May 10 of 1994, a group of 12 soldiers once again reached the summit of Kabru North (7.338m), and a whopping total of 27 men made it to Kabru South (7.318m) on May 12th and 13th. Kabru III was reached by a total of 7 members of the party on the same dates. Even though the army expedition was a full success, the Kabru ice-fall proved that C.R. Cooke had not been too wrong with his assertion:

On 12 May a massive ice avalanche triggered from collapsing seracs from the southeastern face of Kabru South, enveloped the upper portion of the Kabru icefall and the snow plateau. To the good luck of the expedition there was no movement at that time between Camp 2 and 3. The avalanche altered our route completely and the route had perforce to be realigned. However this proved futile, as another massive ice avalanche on 14 May turned the vast amphitheatre into a killing arena thereby rendering any movement in the Kabru icefall absolutely unsafe.

Major A. Abbey about what could have been a deadly accident on Kabru, Himalayan Journal 52, 1996

If you want to get up close and personal with Kabru and its surrounding mountains, your options are approaching from either the Indian or the Nepalese side. Both approaches involve expedition style trekking, sorting out permits, and usually require going with a guided tour. Most tours starting from India can be booked in Gangtok (the capital of Sikkim) or Darjeeling, from where transport to Khangchendzonga National Park is organized. Look for tours taking you on the Goecha La Trek, but make sure they take you to Rathong Valley (you might want to check out my little travel guide of Khangchendzonga National Park here) – otherwise you won’t get to see any good views of Kabru.

The Nepalese side is protected by Kanchenjunga Conservation Area, and since I haven’t been there it’s hard to give any recommendations. Going on the Kanchenjunga Circuit Trek should take you past Sinelapche La Pass (between Ghunsa and Tseram) which offers incredible views of Kabru and Kanchenjunga.