Of course the main attraction of Parque Nacional los Glaciares are its glaciers. Apart from the almost inevitable visit of Glaciar Perito Moreno, there’s a few more – and almost equally impressive – glaciers flowing down from the Southern Patagonian Icefield, which can be accessed through various excursions from El Calafate or El Chaltén. Glaciar Upsala, although not as popular as Perito Moreno, is definitely worth a visit. It is located on the northern arm of Lago Argentino and is almost fifty kilometres long. In the surroundings of Glaciar Upsala the lake is filled with immense icebergs of a deep blue colour that, depending on the time of the year, prevent a visit of the front of the glacier by boat. Tours are offered from El Calafate. Those who love adventure tourism and the ultimate glacier experience, even have the chance to kayak among the icebergs of Glaciar Upsala. Glacier-trekking tours, taking you even closer to the ice, are offered on Glaciar Perito Moreno and Glaciar Viedma. Tours to Glaciar Viedma leave from a small dock on the north-western shore of Lago Viedma near El Chaltén and can be booked at most tour agencies.

Amidst the glaciers of the Southern Patagonian Icefield the rocky peaks of the Patagonian Andes are another tourist magnet. Trekking around those mountains is an amazing experience that you definitely shouldn’t miss out on. Don’t be afraid – even unexperienced hikers will be able to access some of the easier hiking trails in the park and thus get close to the impressive walls of the mountains. Depending on how much time you are willing to spend in Parque Nacional los Glaciares, you’ll be either going on day trips or longer, multi-day treks around the spectacular mountains.

El Calafate offers all kinds of accommodations and although being generally a bit pricey – like the rest of Patagonia – you should be able to find something matching your budget. There are low budget hostels offering dorms, but also state of the art design hotels with great views of Lago Argentino – I’m sure your preferred online booking portal will provide plenty of options.

The small centre of El Calafate (alongside Avenida del Libertador) is compact and is also where most of the hotels, shops, restaurants and tour operators are located. Since everything is in walking distance, staying in hotels around the city centre is a logical choice for many visitors. That said, in high season the centre can get crowded, so travelers looking for a quieter place might be better off a little away from the hustle and bustle.

More unique and luxurious accommodation can generally be found the more you move away from the city’s center. There are a few design hotels in the outskirts of El Calafate, but for an authentic Patagonian stay you might even want to go as far as into the national park. Estancias, essentially farms turned into touristic complexes, like Estancia Christina or Estancia Helsingfors are located inside Parque Nacional los Glaciares or at its borders. They usually offer high-class accommodation and food, and an up-close-and-personal experience of Patagonia’s landscapes, flora and fauna.

For local transport in and around El Calafate you have the usual options. Regular buses serve Glaciar Perito Moreno. If you don’t mind paying a considerable extra, there’s also private taxis (called remises in Argentina) and mini-van services (most accommodations offer them or at least can hook you up) offering more flexibility. In general though, everything you might need as a tourist (except Glaciar Perito Moreno and the airport) is within walking distance. For those having their own transport, El Calafate offers fuel and, in case you may need it, spare parts and mechanics. You can also find a few car rental agencies in El Calafate – be warned though, renting a car in Patagonia might cost you a kidney.

As long as you stick to the popular trails you can expect well marked trails and comfortable hiking. It’s almost impossible to get lost, wooden bridges facilitate the crossing of streams and bogs, and camps were established in safe zones with easy access to water. Water is available throughout most of the hikes and of excellent quality. That said, summer can get crowded – take smart decisions about where to get your water from, especially around campsites.

Whenever straying away from the main trails though, you’ll get to know the wilder side of Parque Nacional los Glaciares. You’ll find yourself in a pristine but remote alpine environment with all its beauty and dangers. Expect river crossings, rock fall, strong winds and quickly changing weather – all of which have led to deaths in the past. The park authorities try their best to prevent injuries, but the increasing popularity of hiking in Patagonia attracts more and more keen hikers, some of which come equipped with little or no knowledge and preparation. Stick to the rules, acknowledge red tape, and as always it’s highly recommended to be aware of your own skills and the environment you move in.

Keep in mind that the park is the natural habitat of the Puma. Luckily sightings or attacks are rare, as the South American Puma is shier than its North American relative, the Cougar (well, actually the Puma is just lucky enough to find sufficient prey further away from humans). Still, it is recommended not to walk alone, and never leave children unattended. In case of an encounter with a Puma, do not panic or run. Try to appear bigger and taller – rise your arms up, maybe hold up your walking sticks. Don’t crouch or bend over. Move away slowly, always facing the Puma – don’t turn away.

With the execption of a few paid camps on private land, camping in Parque Nacional los Glaciares is free. This of course means that unless you go on a paid tour where somebody might carry and set up your tent for you, you will have to bring your own equipment. The camps are usually well sheltered from the wind and rain, and offer the most basic services (expect pit toilets). The most popular campsites are Campamento Poincenot (below Laguna de los Tres), Campamento D’Agostini (close to Laguna Torre), and Campamento Laguna Capri (right next to Laguna Capri). Keep in mind that summer can get crowded on the trails and some of the camps might even fill up.

You can buy food and supplies in supermarkets in El Calafate or El Chaltén. El Calafate has big supermarkets with a huge selection of products, in El Chaltén you’ll find 3-4 smaller supermarkets with a limited selection. The basics are available in any supermarket – if you’re looking for something in particular you might have to visit on or two of them. Sometimes if might pay off to have a look at some of the smaller kiosks – the often have chocolate products you won’t find in the supermarkets. Dry-frozen meals are hard to find.

Equipment is available for rent at most stores selling mountain equipment. Quality is generally mediocre, but most tents, crampons, etc.. still get the job done. Bear in mind that renting equipment is expensive. For technical climbs it is definitely recommended to bring your own equipment. Gas for stoves can also be found at most outfitters. Topographic maps can be found at every corner.

At the time of writing, access to Parque Nacional Los Glaciares is free – with the big exception of visiting Glaciar Perito Moreno. Apart from being paid, the access to Glaciar Perito Moreno is restricted to the opening hours of the visitor’s center. The entry fee will either be collected at the gate or is part of your tour package. Prices may vary from season to season – the latest tariffs can be found here.

You can move around more or less freely in the northern section of Parque Nacional los Glaciares (and around El Chaltén) as long as you stick to marked trails and established campsites (you should be given a map when entering the park). If you do plan any remote trips or climbing you will have to register and get your permit from the national park’s office either in El Calafate or El Chaltén. Non-commercial permits are generally free.